AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Nanda Ghunti, New Route

Nanda Ghunti, new route. Martin Moran led a six-member British expedition to this 6390m peak. Moran has been a regular visitor to the Garhwal for many years, carrying out significant exploration and making a number of noteworthy ascents. After establishing a camp at 5400m and making a reconnaissance of the mountain, Mike Brennan and the guide, Andy Nisbet, made the first ascent of the south face. The route was completed on June 2 and followed a curving couloir (50-55 degrees) between two pinnacles to reach the upper slopes. These in turn were climbed directly to the summit. The route was awarded an Alpine grade of AD+.

On the same day the rest of the team (Moran with Ian Bapty, Tom Rankin, Des Winterbone, and a local high altitude porter, H Singh), repeated the Normal route up the north ridge. This entailed a long approach from Hom Kund (4650m) over the Ronti Saddle (Ronti is a 6063m peak immediately north of Nanda Ghunti). Most of the route was straightforward,

though there was one section of ca 50-degrees. A planned attempt on nearby Trisul was abandoned due to bad weather.

Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal