Kamet (7756m), attempts and ascent. Jerzy Tillak’s eight-member Polish expedition attempted the unrepeated west ridge. This team of strong climbers reached 7390m on August 26 having approached the peak from Gamsali and Niti. Camp 4 was placed at 6600m and Camp 5 at 7120m. The Poles encountered very high winds and loose powder snow, which forced them to give up the climb. An Indian expedition comprising senior citizens from retired police and other officers attempted the standard route in the autumn. The 67-year-old leader, Ashwini Kumar, is reported to have died on reaching the lower slopes. Debasashi Kanji s West Bengal team also failed on the same route. However, in early September an Indo-Tibet Border Police expedition was successful. The summiteers included Sange Sherpa, the only man to have climbed Everest from all three sides—south, north, and east (Kangshung).
Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal