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Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Nilkanth (6596 m), Attempts

Nilkanth (6596 m), attempts: A seven member Korean expedition led by Ja Eok Gook originally hoped to attempt Dunagiri, which is on the outer walls of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. In August they proceeded with full clearance toward this peak but once in the area were then denied permission from the Uttaranchal Forest Authorities. They had to change their objective at the last minute to the unclimbed south face of Nilkanth. Camp II was established but the attempt was called off due to stone fall, avalanches, and crevasses.

The following month Daisuke Narumi’s Japanese expedition tried to climb the peak via the north face and upper west ridge from the Satopanth Bank. They tried to overcome a dangerous icefall on the north face but avalanches stopped their progress. They then attempted the west ridge but only reached the col at the start. One member was sick and they finally called off the expedition.

Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal