American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Lahaul, Gangstang (6162m), Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Gangstang (6162m), ascents. This well-known peak north of the Chandra River was attempted during August by senior citizens from Japan. Two separate expeditions approached from two different directions. Tsuneo Suziki’s team attempted the southwest ridge. They approached from Keylong via Biliang Nala and set up a base camp at 4650m. The leader was a veteran mountaineer, 65 years old, and the other members ranged from 66 to 72, including two ladies over 64 years old. The summit was reached on August 5 and 8 by six members with two Sherpas and four high altitude porters.

The second Japanese expedition comprised five senior members between the ages of 50 and 67. Led by Tatsumi Mizumo, they reached the summit via the north face to east ridge. The climbers approached the mountain from Jankar Sumdo and set up a base camp at 4050m. The top was gained on August 5 by four members with three Sherpas and two high-altitude porters.

Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal

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