American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Overview

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

General Overview. Out of approximately 140 expeditions visiting the Indian Himalaya (ca 105 of these coming from local mountaineers), around 60 (19 of which were foreign) were to routine peaks such as Kedar Dome, Jogin, and Stok Kangri, and are not covered in this report. There were no expeditions to Sikkim.

At least two expeditions to the newly formed Uttaranchal State, attempting peaks on the boundaries of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, faced serious permit problems. Generally, approaching peaks on Sanctuary walls from the outside was permitted. Many expeditions have made ascents in the past, for example Changabang from the north and Nanda Devi East from the east. However, the new state authorities stopped a Korean and an American expedition, which were attempting Dunagiri and Kalanka respectively. The Americans reached their peak after long delays but the Korean team had to change plans and attempt Nilkanth instead. Future expeditions to the Uttaranchal States (consisting of Garhwal and Kumaun regions) and particularly to the peaks on the rim of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary should be careful in assessing the situation when they apply.

Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal

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