American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Shipton Spire, Inshallah, Third Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Shipton Spire, Inshallah, third ascent. Cecilia

Buil, Nan Darkis, and I did the third ascent of Inshallah (1,350 meters: 5.12 and A2) on the south east face Shipton Spire. Darkis and I attempted to free climb most of the 30 pitches we led. Buil aided three pitches. We spent seven days fixing and hauling 300m+ before finishing the route in a six-day push. We climbed through the last two days and two nights without sleep or much food, in order to finish the route. Unfortunately, we were unable to do the last two pitches because of an approaching storm and had to settle for a high point 50m below the summit. The route mostly consists of brilliant crack climbing, ranging from 5.8 to 5.11 hands to fists. There is minimal face climbing.

Lizzy Scully

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