Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Ogre's Thumb, New Route

Publication Year: 2002.

Ogre’s Thumb, new route. Italians, Matteo Castelnuovo, Guiseppe Lafranconi, Alberto Marazzi, Simone Pedeferri, and Marco Vago, put up a new route on the South Face of the Ogre’s Thumb (ca 5500m). Ragni sul Filo (700 meters) has 18 pitches with difficulties up to F7c and A2. The new line lies towards the left side of the face and joins the Original American Route at a terrace, some pitches below the top. The summit was not reached. Stances were bolted and a few protection bolts were placed but mostly the climb requires natural gear. It is reported to have one pitch of 7c, one of 7b, two of A2, a few pendulums and the rest 6b and above.

Mountain INFO, High Mountain Sports 233