American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Africa, Madagascar, Lemur Wall, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Lemur Wall, new route. To the right of Pectorine, in the vicinity of the huge broken flake, Swiss climbers, Jurg Bernhard and Andreas Bähler, created a new four-pitch route christened, La Voie Plaisir des Guides Suisses. The climb was put up on the 26th September and has difficulties of 6c, 6a obl. The pair set out to create a real ‘plaisir’ route and the result is a very well-equipped sport climb with 14 bolts on the crux pitch. However, the route was opened from the top.

Traditionally, routes in the area were opened from the ground up. The first to be equipped by rappel, Tsaky-Tasky on Lemur Wall (Duteurte/Tiberghien, 1998: 7a+), came in for some criticism. Local climbers comment that this criticism was well-founded as the route was disappointing and showed the first ascensionists’ lack of experience. However, they feel the new Swiss route is different, as it is an excellent climb, strongly recommended, and has already seen around a dozen repeat ascents. They are quite happy for routes to be opened in this fashion, as long as the result is a very good climb that is accessible to many visiting parties.

Mountain INFO, High Mountain Sports

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