American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Central Andes, Peaks in the Cepo and Quempo Chains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Peaks in the Cepo and Quempo chains. I accompanied Fernando Montenegro (Santiago) in several forays into these two rocky chains located in the Santiago hinterland, east of the ski resort of Farellones. The peaks we chose were small by Chilean standards but were hitherto unclimbed. On January 24 we started from the Arenales valley and traversed Alto de la Jarilla (4050m) and Salazar (4020m). The latter peak demanded rope work under its summit. Both are in the Cepo chain. In December we went to the Quempo chain and climbed Sargento del Quempo (4156m). A week later we re-entered the Arenales valley and on December 28 traversed Lagruca (4109m) and La Laguna (4182m), five first ascents in all. In January 2002 I went, now alone, to the ski resort of Portillo and from the international border pass of Lomas Coloradas made the second ascent, and first by the unstable east flank, of Charqueado (4515m). An attempt on unclimbed, unnamed, and quite difficult Peak 4587m failed.

Evelio EchevarrÍa

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