American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Fitz Roy, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Cerro Fitz Roy, north face. During January Frenchmen Jerome Arpin, Sylvain Empereur, Yannick Ponson, and Lionel Pouzadoux climbed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy. They spent a total of six days working on the route and fixed ropes to pitch 20 (around 800 meters of rope). They summited late in the evening on January 22, 2002. Their line starts just right of the Polish route and reaches the Grand Hotel, a big ledge halfway up the face, in about 16 pitches. There it crosses Tehuelche and climbs a crack system just right of Tehuelche’s most obvious feature, Marco’s Dihedral. They climbed a total of 32 pitches (1,200 meters), with difficulties up to 6b+ and A2+. They descended the route. For a repeat they recommend taking three or four sets of cams, stoppers, some copperheads, many pins, and a few hooks. Belay anchors are in place.

Rolando Garibotti, AAC, Club Andino Bariloche

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