American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Mermoz, Padre Viento; Guillaumet, The Gambler; St. Exupery, East Pillar Variation

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Mermoz, Padre Viento; Guillaumet, The Gambler; St. Exupery, east pillar variation. Jared Ogden and I arrived in the Fitz Roy region on December 1 and found several unclimbed ice lines in condition. On the east face of the Mermoz we did the first ascent of Padre Viento (1,800', M6 WI5+), to the left of the Red Pillar. On the left side of the east face of the Guillaumet, we found The Gambler (1,800', M7 WI6+). With overhanging ice and five pitches of M7 mixed climbing, it could be the hardest mixed climb in the area. Both routes end on heavily gendarmed ridges, and neither reaches a true summit, just the top of a wall. On St. Exupery’s east pillar we climbed a new four-pitch M6 start to the 2,500-foot Regular Route and free climbed the rest of the 5.11 A1 route at very wet 5.11+.

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