American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Torre, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Cerro Torre, east face. In late October and early November Italians Paolo Calza, Mauro Giovanazzi, Walter Gobbi, and Ermanno Salvaterra attempted a new route on the east face of this peak, via a completely independent line. After fixing the first 300 meters they got on the wall on October 27, establishing themselves at their first portaledge bivy, which they christened “Dalai Lama.” Over the next week they managed to climb another 450 meters, reaching a point where the wall kicks back, not far from the base of a very large ice chimney on the upper third of the wall. At a small ledge they again set up their portaledge camp, where they were pinned down by a fierce storm for four days. Gobbi and Salvaterra became intoxicated with propane from their stove, so on November 3 they all decided to retreat.

Rolando Garibotti, AAC, Club Andino Bariloche

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