AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Brazil, Salinas, Various Routes

Salinas, various routes. Salinas is known as the best place for long, adventurous routes in Brazil. It’s only a three-hour drive from Rio, but the place is wild and peaceful. Just a small village with a café and a small grocery store. It’s possible to ask for meals at the Refugio de Agua, a place like paradise an hour and a half from the wall. Salinas features steep granite domes from 400 to 700 meters high, with little equipment needed. There are a few bolts in the slabs. Almost half the routes have been opened by Sergio Tartari, the owner of the Refugio de Agua and the “seigneur”of Salinas. Sergio, who is one of the most “complete” climbers of Brazil, can be of great help with advice on equipment and approaches, which are not always obvious.

The 400-meter Capacete route at Cerj can be a good introduction to local rock and protection, as can the 700-meter historical Leste route at Pic Major. Otherwise the best routes, according to many Brazilian climbers, are Decadence Avec Elegance (17 pitches, all free up to French 7a+) and Paradoxo. Decadence Avec Elegance, which we opened in 1999, was so named because we came with a power drill, and Sergio was jealous. We gave it to him one day, and he quickly bolted some belays!

Emmanuel Ratouis, France