American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chinchey Group: Shahuanca, Cherup II, El Roca del Cuyé Loco

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 2002

Chinchey Group: Shahuanca, Cherup II, El Roca del Cuyé Loco. In the Chinchey Group, up behind Huaraz, the French alpinists Clément Guntz and Hugo Robin made what they think may be the first ascent of a peak they called Shahuanca on July 25, 2000. The peak, which is labeled 5,383m on the 1939 Deutschen Alpenverein map, lies east of Chopihirca (5057m) and Catac, in what appears to be the Shahuanca valley. The route ascends the west-southwest side of the peak, is 1,000 meters long and AD+ in difficulty. On August 2 Guntz soloed, a possible first ascent, the Northwest Arête of Churup II (5461m), from Q. Cohup at ca 4000m. He descended the face to the right. Guntz, Robin, and Joel Menard also established a new 500- meter rock route at El Roca del Cuyé Loco, near Churup, climbing a series of left-facing corners through a roof. The route appears to be called Le Pilier du Hamster Fou.

Based on correspondence with Clément Guntz, FFME, France

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