American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Palcaraju Oeste, Ratz Fatz

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Palcaraju Oeste, Ratz Fatz. On the west face of the west summit (6110m) a new route, Ratz Fatz (500m, TD), was established by Chileans Eduardo Mondragon, and Martin Waldhoer on July 25,2000. The route begins just right of a prominent rock spur near the bottom of the face and takes a fairly direct path to the top. Most of the climbing was 45- to 60-degree snow, with some 65-degree mixed climbing midway and a 75-degree exit on flutings. Although they used the Ishinca Valley for their approach, they traversed the northwest ridge (towards Tocllaraju) from the summit, before descending a couloir between seracs. The couloir led to a glacier, which they crossed to the base camp used for Tocllaraju’s normal route.

Mountain INFO, High Mountain Sports 223

Editor’s note: this may have been climbed more than once before.

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