American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju, Northeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Artesonraju, northeast face. In June 2000 Spaniards Nemisio Matalobos and Angel Terrain established a ca 800-meter route rated alpine D (55 degrees) on the northeast face, which is accessed from the upper Santa Cruz Valley. The route lies between the 1965 Hartman-Reiss-Schatz-Steiger Route and the East Ridge (Janis-Lowe-Lowe-Ortenburger, 1971). It starts from the same snow slopes as the 1965 route, then crosses the rock rib on the couloir's left side to gain snow and ice that leads to the summit (6025m). It might be better thought of as a variation to the 1965 route.

Mountain INFO, High Mountain Sports 227

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