American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huarochirí, Nevado Sullcón, North Face; Nevado Vicuñiuta Sur, Southeast Face, Southwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Nevado Sullcón, north face; Nevado Vicuñita Sur, southeast face, southwest face. Unusually bad weather and deep snow were a constant handicap during the 2001 climbing season in central Peru. In May J.P Perret and I attempted Pariacacca Norte (5701m), but deep snow forced us to abandon our climb. In early June we explored for routes up Nevado Sullcón (5650m). I returned three weeks later and on June 26, with Damián A. Vargas, tackled the steep north face. We reached the summit, a first ascent, up steep ice and a narrow snow ridge. In mid-July Bruno Castro and I made an ascent of Nevado Vicuñita Sur (5500m). We gained the summit via the southeast face, but had to make a hasty descent due to strong snow squalls. On August 28, Alejandro A. Vargas, his son Damián, and I revisited the mountain. We climbed its southwest face by way of a steep gully and the west ridge.

Alberto MurguÍa, Club de Montañeros Américo Tordoya, Lima

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