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Tatewarí, Cola de Venado

The Cumbres de Monterrey “la Huasteca” National Park (la Huasteca refers to the region around the Gulf of México) is located in the metropolitan area of the city of Santa Catarina in the state of Nuevo León. Once in the park you have to follow the paved road (3 km) until it turns to gravel. Once on the gravel road follow a sign on the ground that says “Virikuta.” This road enters another canyon that leads to the ranch of Don Simón Loera Correa. This Señor Simón is the rural Judge and it is important to let him know the length of your stay in the area.

The canyon is surrounded by a great massif of limestone rock that reaches over 500 meters in height. The area possesses vast potential for multi-pitch climbing and is only 20 minutes from the city of Santa Catarina. On the rock wall Tatewarí (Grandfather Fire), 550 meters tall, is the first route. Because it is a desert zone the best months to climb are October until April, the others being very hot. It is advisable to arrive with all of your food, water, and fuel when entering the park.Last October I was invited to get to know the canyon. I returned in December with Francisco Trad to equip and do the first ascent of Cola de Venado (Stag’s Tail) (550 meters, V 5.12d). The ascent was done from the ground up, placing bolts from hooks. The work took us five days of climbing and staying on the wall. There are 10 pitches of 55 meters each and 115 bolts on excellent, featured limestone. Rap the route to descend.

After the first attempt we left the route equipped and returned to México City. Last March I returned to free the route and confirm its rating. This time Rodney Blackmore, from the U.S., and I simulclimbed the route without falls in a total of five hours, greatly enjoying the climbing. From the summit the landscape is spectacular and you can see three enormous virgin walls awaiting their first route. There are two other areas of the park for sport climbing in the zone of Guitarritas and various others around la Huasteca. There is enormous potential for further climbing in the area.

Luis Carlos GarcÍa Ayala, Mexico