American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Warriors of the Wasteland, Second Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Warriors of the Wasteland, Second Ascent. Warriors was a communal effort that spanned over 20 years, with over 10 people involved in the ascent. At IV 5.12c it was first completed and free climbed continuously by Matt Maddaloni and Ben DeMenech in September 2000. Colin Moorhead and I did the second ascent in July 2001. Warriors starts by coinciding with Western Dihedrals for two pitches of steep 5.10+/5.11- slab and face climbing. Then more 5.11- face and crack. Pitch four gets real, with a sustained 5.12 ultrathin crack. The fifth pitch, the crux, is a steep, difficult face. (The rock to the right looks easier.) Pitch six is an incredibly burly, overhanging corner (50 meters, solid 5.11). This is followed by a rather unpleasant traverse right along a dike into a corner. The finish is on Colins awesome 5.10+ Cloudburst. Colin and I climbed Cloudburst, mostly in the rain, freeing most of it. With the exception of Scott Cosgrove’s free version of the Grand Wall, we deem it the most difficult free climb on the Chief.

Steve Seats

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