American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Logan Mountains, Bustle Tower, Lotus Flower Tower, Parrot Beak Peak, Proboscis

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Bustle Tower, Lotus Flower Tower, Parrot Beak Peak, Proboscis. In the Cirque of the Unclimbables Jonathan Copp made a series of impressive ascents with various partners. With Brooke Andrews he established the Don’t Get Piggy (V 5.12a) variation to Club International, and with Tim O’Neill made the first free ascent of Club International (V 5.11b). The routes are also the first free ascents of 2,000-foot Bustle Tower. He and Josh Wharton then climbed the famous Lotus Flower Tower in 4 hours and 26 minutes. Copp and Wharton also established Pecking Order (2,800', V+ 5.11R) on Parrot Beak Peak, also in a day. After a rest day, the pair made the first all-free ascent of the Original Route (2,000', V 5.12R) on Proboscis, onsight, in a day. A full account of this trip appears earlier in this journal.

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