American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Sergeant Robinson, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Mt. Sergeant Robinson, north face. Cash Joyce and Carl Oswald, who has been extremely active in putting up routes in the western and northwestern Chugach over the last few years, did a 12-hour blitz of the previously unclimbed north face of Mt. Sergeant Robinson (10,450'). The route was about 4,500 feet long, mostly a straightforward snow-and-ice face with alpine ice as steep as 80 degrees. It is probably the fastest way up the mountain from the highway and a good alternative to the knify, long, and loose north ridge. While the hangers in the area might seem frightening from a distance, the route is mostly free of objective hazard. The 13-miles up Glacier Creek is far easier by snow machine or skis in winter than as a summertime trudge. The climb also typifies the potential of these mountains—big ice faces, terrifying rock quality, and relief on the scale of famous big routes in the Canadian Rockies.

Evan Phillips

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