American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Moose's Tooth, Dierct East Pillar (a.k.a. The BEast)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Moose’s Tooth, Direct East Pillar (a.k.a. The Beast). On the 5,000-foot east face of the Moose’s Tooth, site of the historic The Dance of the Woo Li Masters (Jim Bridwell and Mugs Stump, 1981), Bridwell and Spencer Pfingsten established the Direct East Pillar, a.k.a. The Beast (VII A5 5.10b WI4+ M6). The route, which took 29 days of effort in 2000 and 30 in 2001, is essentially a direct start to the 1981 route, joining it halfway, via the rock pillar to its left. Rotten rock was common. The key pitch, the 18th or 19th of the 44, involved 70-degree rock covered with unconsolidated snow, with no protection for 200 feet. This pitch, which forced the team to retreat in 2000, linked the new line to the 1981 route. Bridwell says it is the most difficult route he’s ever climbed.

personal communication with Bridwell, and Climbing, and Rock and Ice

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