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North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, Roasted Pork

North Chasm View Wall, Roasted Pork. In September Nick Meyer and I made the first ascent of Roasted Pork (IV 5.11 A1) on the far left side of the North Chasm View Wall. We approached the climb by descending the Cruise Gully. We then skirted the entire North Chasm View Wall and climbed the gully used to approach A Moveable Feast. A detailed description of this approach can be found in Black Canyon Rock Climbs. We climbed the gully for 100 feet on fourth-class rock. On the left is a large slab, which we continued up with some 5.9 climbing. At the top of this slab we noted a stuck rope and several cams that had apparently been left as rappel anchors. It appears that the party before us retreated below a pegmatite band on the second pitch. We climbed through the horrendously rotten peg band via unprotected free climbing and aid. From the top of the pegmatite the route continues into a steep 5.11 corner and then into another difficult thin crack. We resorted to several moves of aid on this pitch. Once easier ground was gained, we traversed to the right on pegmatite to access a prominent corner system. We followed this corner for several pitches to an overhanging finger crack. We chose not to climb this crack, as it was full of hundreds of wasps. Instead we down climbed and tensioned to the right to gain a right-facing corner system. We followed the corner for several hundred feet to a large undercling flake and followed it to the top. We thought we had joined No Pig Deal for its final pitch, but after speaking with Jonnathan Copp, we think that the routes are independent lines.

Robbie Williams