American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Arizona, Baboquivari Peak, Cloud Man Got Angry

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Baboquivari Peak, Cloud Man Got Angry. In March Jackie Carroll and I added a four-pitch variation, Cloud Man Got Angry, to Born of Water. The variation is definitely a better alternative. Start 30 feet right of Born of Water and slightly downhill, in a vertical open book. Pitch 1: Climb the book and, passing cactus, head to another dihedral, which has grass in it. Passing a few bolts (5.9) gets you to an excellent finger crack in the dihedral. Belay on a ledge at the top. Pitch 2: Climb straight up and pass a roof on its right (5.9). Weave up ledges past a bolt to a belay stance. Pitch 3: Climb past nine bolts to a water groove. Belay at its top. Pitch 4: Follow 10 bolts out and left on steep rock with great holds. A 5.10a friction move ends the difficulties at a ledge called I’itoi’s Balcony. The fourth pitch can be climbed without trad gear if you are comfortable on easy runouts. From the left end of the Balcony, join the 5.7 dike pitch (pitch five) of Born of Water.

Mike Strassman

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.