American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Slacker's Toil

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

El Capitan, Slacker's Toil. Slacker’s Toil (VI 5.9 A5b) is a four-and-a-fourth-pitch variant to Surgeon General/Lunar Eclipse. My variation climbs an A5 pitch and an A4+ pitch on a superloose feature, The Great Sword. I basically soloed the lower half of Surgeon General, including Eric Kohl’s A5 crux pitch, then headed out right, then up into the Great Circle. After climbing Lunar Eclipse’s Milky Way pitch, I climbed straight up to the Devil’s Brow and off via Lunar Eclipse. My new A5 pitch and Kohl’s old A5 pitch are both technically harder than the Reticent crux, but Reticent is longer and therefore harder.

Jim Beyer, AAC

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