American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Tien Shan, Peak Kezi-Sel, Traverse, and Jamanjar, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Peak Kezi-Sel, Traverse, and Jamanjar, Attempt. After 14 days’ acclimatization in Kyrgyzstan in the Kichik Alai and Alai ranges, Andrei Lebedev (leader), Ilia Guerov, Boris Malakhov, Piotr Rykalov, and I (assistant leader) began our expedition to China’s Kashgar Range. Over 28 days, with no camels, L.O., or other support, we explored the southeast slopes of Muztagh Ata and the southeast slopes of Kongur (traveling 250 kilometers in total). We crossed two technical passes on the first part of our route; on the second part, we crossed a forgotten pass from the Karakul area east to the Teresaz-Su Valley. Here we descended to the lowest point of our route (2800m). We then went to the upper Chimgensu, walking through the complicated icefall of the South Chimgen Glacier and made a traverse (from east to west) of Peak Kezi-Sel (6525m on Chinese maps; 6590m on Soviet maps and in the Himalayan Index). This peak lies in the Kashgar Range to the south of Kongur; it was attempted in 1982 (see 1983 AAJ, pp. 296-7).

We then attempted an ascent of Jamanjar (7229m), which lies between Kongur and Kongur Tjube. Strong winds and deep fog stopped us at the east summit (7100m) on July 31. We had no time for a second attempt. On August 5, we crossed Torugart Pass back into Kyrgyzstan.

Otto Chkhetiani, Russia

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