American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Masherbrun Mountains, Brakk Zang, South Face Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Brakk Zang, South Face, Ascents. It was reported that a Korean expedition was responsible for two new lines on the south face of Brakk Zang (a.k.a Sotulpa Peak, 4800m). Jang Hyung- Won, Lim Sung-Muk and Shin Moon-He established a route over the course of 15 days that was given the grade of VI 5.9 A4-, “A lot” of fixed ropes were used in the course of the ascent. Anjong Neonj and Moon Sung Wook established a second route to the right of the first in capsule style at VI 5.9 A3+. A portaledge was employed during the ascent. Both routes occur to the right of the 1998 south pillar route Ramchekor (Peter-Thomas, VI 5.10 A2, 600m) and left of the 1998 route, Ganyips (Masip-Vidal, VI 6a A3, 540m), which takes the southeast pillar. Parties visiting the area later in the season were reported to have noted that large, bright silver spots were painted on the rock to indicate belay stations of the Korean routes. The Koreans were said to have replaced the carabiner left by the British women on the summit with one of their own. (High Mountain Sports 221)

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