American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Masherbrun Mountains, Honboro Peak and Chogolisa, Attempts, and Daare Peak, Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Honboro Peak and Chogolisa, Attempts, and Daare Peak, Ascent. We arrived in Hushe on June 19 and established Base Camp two days later at 4225 meters aside the Honboro Glacier at the base of Honboro Peak. After surveying the mountain, we decided that attempting Honboro from the east was too dangerous due to the high risk of falling seracs. Therefore, Iñaki San Vicente, Txus Martín and I ended up ascending a nearby peak, known by the locals as Daare Peak (5650m), on June 29. After that, we joined a group of friends on their way to attempt the northeast summit of Chogolisa via the east ridge. This ascent was part of a documentary film being produced about the life of Luis de Saboya, the Duke of Abruzzi, and his expedition to this mountain in 1909. We made part of the approach wearing old-fashioned costumes like the ones used back in those days, and on July 14 we established Base Camp at 5000 meters. On the 27th we ascended to the col (ca. 6100m) between Snow Dome and Chogolisa using old-fashioned clothing. On August 3, we left BC following the death of our friend Felix Iñurrategi on GII.

Jose Carlos Tamayo, Spain

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