American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tien Shan, Khan Tengri, North Face, Variation

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Khan Tengri, North Face, Variation. From August 2-13, a team from Nizhniy Tagil comprising Vadim Popovich (leader), Yuri Ermachek, and Alexander Korobkov climbed the north face of Khan Tengri via a combination of various 6B routes: those of B. Studenin (1974), E. Myslovskiy (1974), and A. Pogorelov (1993). The resulting route is a direct line from the base of the face to the summit, with a small right turn near the rocky summit buttress. Two periods of bad weather during the climb forced the climbers to stop and wait for better conditions, one day at ca. 4950 meters at the start of the climb and another day at 6450 meters in the center of the north face.

Vladimir Shataev and Vladimir Kopylov, Russian Mountaineering Federation

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