AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Dry Valleys, Mt. Rae, New Route

Mt. Rae, New Route. On February 4, a new route, Stray Beaker (Grade III), on the southern face of Peak 1848 (Mt. Rae), was climbed solo from the west end of Lake Hoare (58m) in the Taylor Valley. This massif lies directly to the north of the lake and is between the Canada and Suess Glaciers. The route ascends 400 meters of scree above the lake ice to gain the major glacial couloir. A mild 35- to 40-degree slope continues for 1000 meters, before angling to the left and continuing up another 350-meter headwall with a constant angle of 45 to 50 degrees. The couloir ends on the right side of an unnamed hanging glacier, and the ridge is ascended around its accumulation zone to reach the long summit ridge. The highest point on the summit ridge is reached by traversing west. The ascent took seven to eight hours round-trip.

Kevin Wheeler, unaffiliated