American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Bader Valley, Cuerno Chico, Southwest Face, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Cuerno Chico, Southwest Face, New Route. On March 9, Kimburly Schembari and I established a new route, Loco Corazon (5.9, 4 pitches), on the southwest face of Cuerno Chico (right next to the route Carlito ’s Way, by Charlie Fowler, Koky Castaneda, and Nacho Grez). We took one set of stoppers, one set of Friends, a set of TCUs, and another set of cams. We had to be really patient because the weather was bad for a long time. Finally the sky cleared up. It was the only chance that we had had so far, so we decided to move quickly without knowing when the conditions were going to change. And luck was with us: we had great weather for three days. The rock was loose in some sections. It is also important to mention that the Cuerno Chico area is one of those places that is particularly fragile and is not recommended for large parties.

Ignacio “Nacho” Grez, Chile

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