AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Lake District, Mt. Trinidad, Attempt, and Unnamed New Route

Mt. Trinidad, Attempt, and Unnamed New Route. Lucy Regan, Brian Bigger, and James Marshall attempted the remaining natural line on Mt. Trinidad, the right-hand crack line. Regan and Bigger had attempted the route previously, reaching about one-third height. From this previous highpoint, what they had hoped were cracks proved to be shallow diagonaling seams. They added another six pitches to their previous half dozen, but the awkward aid up to new-wave A3+ proved very time consuming (one 40-meter section took 13 hours, for example). During this time the weather had been awful, with Brian commenting that he’d never seen so much rain. Eventually the team made the difficult decision to halt their attempt, and turned their focus to the superb unclimbed ridges of the area that had been ignored by the previous teams of big wall climbers. Their most memorable effort was the two-kilometer horseshoe-like ridge enclosing the valley; it had technicalities up to HVS and was described as “just stunning.”

Ian Parnell, United Kingdom