American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Aguja De l'S, Jugo de Hielo

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Aguja De l’S, Jugo de Hielo. Jugo de Hielo, the jewel of this small tower, saw two repeats this year, after remaining unclimbed since its first ascent in 1986 by Italians Grassi, Pe, and Rossi. Bruno Sourzac of France and Jon Ugarie of Spain climbed it on January 19, 2001, reaching the base of the upper portion of the north ridge but not continuing on to the summit. The route climbs an obvious snow couloir on the tower’s west face to reach a series of improbable-looking ice veneers (five pitches between 70° and 85°) that lead to a large recess at the base of the upper portion of the North Ridge route. Sourzac and Ugarie descended via ramps that lead to the Campo Polacos, which is the recommended descent route. Frenchman Bruno Blanchon and Spaniard Albert Santiago followed Sourzac and Ugarie’s steps the very next day. The North Ridge saw one repeat, in February, by Italians Manuele Panzeri, Andrea Spandri, and Donata Gusmersoli, who climbed a short variation in the lower part.

Rolando Garibotti, Club Andino Bariloche

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