American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Cinchey Group, Palcaraju Oeste, South Face, New Route, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Palcaraju Oeste, South Face, New Route, Previously Unreported. In September, 1999, Frédéric Bréhédon and Benoît Peyronnard established Tempête de Joie on the south face of the 6110-meter, rarely climbed Palcarju Oeste in the Chinchey Group northeast of Huaraz. They approached from the Ishinca Valley and camped at a col between Palcaraju Oeste and Ishinca. Their 600-meter route ascends ice flutings on the right side of the face to gain a small, prominent cornice on the east ridge. From here, they rappelled without summiting. The route was graded TD/TD+, 12 pitches, mostly 60- to 75-degree ice and mixed, with vertical climbing at the entry and exit. (High Mountain Sports 215)

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