AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Paron Valley, La Esfinge, Here Comes the Sun, New Route

La Esfinge, Here Comes the Sun, New Route. In late May and early June, United Kingdom climbers Brian Bigger and Lucy Regan established Here Comes the Sun (E3 5c A3), considered by many parties to be the best line on this fine face. The 700-meter-high route on the east face climbs the obvious nose-like feature, beginning with the initial four pitches of the French route Papas Rellenas, then breaking right to diagonal across the prominent headwall via a stellar line of discontinuous flakes. They fixed ropes over seven days, spent another six days on the wall in good weather, and placed nine bolts. Most pitches were freed, with Regan leading the serious crux aid pitch on hooks, expanding nailing, and RURPS, with huge fall potential.

Based on information from Ian Parnell (U.K.) and Antonio Gómez Bohórquez (Spain)