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South America, Ecuador, Antisana Sur, Northwest Face, New Route

Antisana Sur, Northwest Face, New Route. On February 14, 2001, Tim Connelly and I left our base camp below the moraines (4600m) at 3 a.m. for Antisana Sur. We crossed the bergschrund below the northwest face at 5:30 a.m. and took the right of the two couloirs. We mostly simulclimbed the 65-degree snow-and-ice face to the ridge, where we encountered several difficult crevasses. Once at the summit at 12:30 p.m. we began the difficult part of the day: descending the “regular” Figure S route. After six rappels anchored by imaginative counter-balances, rime bollards, and a threaded boulder, we arrived at the lower glacier. Dehydrated from the grueling equatorial heat, we stumbled back to camp at 9 p.m. The Connelly-Stock route is Grade 4, 65 degrees.

Joe Stock, unaffiliated