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North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Kungmiut Area, New Routes

Kungmiut Area, New Routes. Sabine Krol and Eduard Birnbacher visited the area south of the small village of Kungmiut in March. There are a lot of mountainous rocky island south of Kungmiut; our goal was to climb new routes on the rock peaks of these islands. But to reach these islands was not possible, because there was no ice on the sea (normally at this time of the year, there is good ice and you can walk to the islands). We were forced to change our goal and walked instead to the mountains north of Kungmiut.

In the first side valley north of Kungmiut (a steep walk of about six kilometers), we established a new route on a steep rock peak (ca. 1100m) (the peak is the first rock peak in this side valley). We climbed the left side of the south face to the southwest ridge. From this ridge, we down climbed and rappelled the route of ascent, which we called Piteraq (UIAA V-, 65°, mixed, 350m).

In this same side valley, we made another first ascent on a second steep rock peak (ca. 1100m) that lies directly east of the first one we had climbed. We climbed the middle south pillar on the south face of this peak. After 300 meters of mixed climbing, we reached the first summit of the pillar. From this point, we down climbed and rappelled the route of ascent, which we called Issi (UIAA V, ice to 70°). We left some pegs for the rappel.

In the first long valley east of Kungmiut (a walk of about seven kilometers), we established another route on a rock peak in the middle part of the valley. We climbed the left (southeast) pillar on the southeast face of this peak. After 320 meters of mixed climbing, we reached the first summit of the pillar. From this pillar’s summit, we down climbed and rappelled the route of ascent, which we called Pujoq (UIAA V A0, ice to 75°). We left some pegs for the rappel.

Most of the rock faces on this part of the coast have poor-quality, friable rock. For mixed climbing, the best time is the end of winter and spring.

Eduard Birnbacher, Germany