American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Ulamertorssuaq, Piteraq, and Little Ulamertorssuaq, Mosquito Attack, New Routes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Ulamertorssuaq, Piteraq, and Little Ulamertorssuaq, Mosquito Attack, New Routes. From June 27 to July 19, we established a new route on Ulamertorssuaq’s 900-meter south face. Our team was Torben Redder (Denmark), Jens Søndergaard (Denmark), Lars Haugen (Norway), Matthias Körner (Germany) and I. The route is located just right of Moby Dick and left of Geneva Diedre/War and Poetry. Occasionally it shares pitches with these two routes, but contains 13 new pitches, mostly 55 to 60 meters. Because it is squeezed between two hard routes we called it Piteraq (VI 5.9 A3, 900m), a Danish name for the wind on the east coast of Greenland that becomes very powerful as it squeezes in between mountains. The quality of the rock in the lower half is not always fantastic, but in the upper half it is absolutely per- fect. All kinds of climbing are found in the route, from tiny copperhead cracks to chimneys, and there is free climbing potential for some of our aid pitches. For the lower half of the route we fixed ropes, and on the upper half we spent seven nights in portaledges. Our portaledge camps (at 450 and 600 meters) were very exposed to the occasionally strong wind (the ledge hovered in the strong wind once), but not to water running down the wall.

Additionally, Matthias Körner and I established a new 300-meter free climb, Mosquito Attack (UIAA VII), on Little Ulamertorssuaq, just west of Ulamertorssuaq. The weather was surprisingly good that summer. Additional information on climbing in the Tasermiut Fjord, and on the new routes, can be found at

Torben Redder, Denmark

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