AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Tasermiut Fjord, Ketil, West Face, New Route

Ketil, West Face, New Route. From July 13-23, Eduardo Alonso (Spain) and I established a new route, Anissa (VI ED 6b+ obl. A3, 1200m), on the west face of Ketil (2010m). The west face of Ketil can be divided into three parts: a 400-meter roof section, comprising four roofs; a 400-meter slab section; and a 450-meter amphitheater section. The climb began with a 150- meter pillar just under two arches. Three pitches (7a/6b obl. A2) led to a big flake just under the first arch. Two other pitches (6a/A3) allowed us to gain the third roof. After a big traverse left (6a, 20m), we passed the roof on its extremity to gain a big, easy crack just after a slab crux (6b+ obl.). A 60-meter chimney/offwidth (6b) led under the last roof. We traversed about 25 meters (6b) to gain a crack system that passes the roof and continues through the second section (ten pitches, 6a to 6b). At the beginning of the season, there is snow at this point. In this section we followed a white natural line, first on the right side (four pitches, 6b), then on the left side (two pitches: 7a or pendulum, 6a) to gain a crack system (five pitches, 6a) that leads to the col between the two summits. We put our last belay on the black rock at the end of the difficulties, on the easy ledges leading to the summit, about 30 meters below the col (40 to 50 meters below the summit). We rappelled down over one and a half days using 120- meter ropes.

David Jonglez, France