American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, The Bugaboos, Various New Routes and First Free Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

The Bugaboos, Various New Routes and First Free Ascent. Between July 24 and August 16, Patience Donahue and I lucked onto a weather window and scored three new routes and one first free ascent. The most significant route is Cameron’s Pillar (5.11+, 1,500'), a fantastic line on the south face of the South Howser Tower named after our friend Cameron Tague, who was with us in spirit during every perfect jam. The first ascent list should read, “FA: Patience and Topher Donahue and the Spirit of Cameron Tague.” We did not go to the summit, but rappelled after reaching the end of the steep climbing and the top of the pillar, where we scattered Cameron’s ashes.

On the southwest corner of the East Pigeon Feather, we found Finger Berry Jam (5.12-, 900'), a route so fine we had to return and climb it twice more after the first ascent.

At the end of our stay we free climbed the Tower Arête (5.12-, 1,000') on Snowpatch Spire. We fixed one pin and followed the aid line almost exactly.

Topher Donahue

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