American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Mountains, Taku Towers, Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Taku Towers, Ascents. In June, 2000, Stefan Ricci and I flew to the south side of the Taku Towers, which are located about 15 miles north of Juneau. During our stay, we managed to climb the magnificent South Ridge of the South Tower (seven pitches, mostly at 5.7 with one hard 5.9 pitch), and the Magic Line on the south face of the North Tower. The route on the South Tower, being the easiest line, was not likely new. The longer east face was climbed circa 1975. Magic Line (IV 5.9 Al), which is probably a new route, climbs the south face directly to the summit in nine pitches, the last two ascending a left-facing comer just below the summit.

Michael Wolf, unaffiliated

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