American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Mountains, Mt. St. Elias, Hamburger Route, Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Mt. St. Elias, Homberger Route, Ascent. In April, my friend Bean Bowers and I climbed the Southeast Face (Homberger Route) on Mt. St. Elias in a three-day dash, with one day pinned down by storm at 13,500 feet. We were in Alaska for about a week from Anchorage to Anchorage. We first tried the direct (and unclimbed) north spur, reaching 10,500 feet, but the snow was deep and funky. The day after we turned back, the whole route got an earthquake-triggered, ass-whooping avalanche down it! I guess my luck is still holding out.

Our summit day was a 5,000-foot climb to the top. We then descended all the way back to base, with the last 5,000 feet being ankle-deep powder skiing, arriving by early afternoon. All told, we avoided the notorious weather that “Saint Deny-us” is known for.

Dave Nettle, unaffiliated

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