American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Triangle Peak, The Prism, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Triangle Peak, The Prism, Previously Unreported. On October 13, 1997, Matt Porter and I hiked nine miles up the South Fork of Eagle River to the north face of Triangle Peak (5,450'). Our intended line was 1,000 feet of water ice culminating in a pillar halfway up the face. We started up 50-degree névé and made our first belay to the right of the bergschrund. Four interesting mixed pitches took us to the base of an amphitheater from which a 120-foot pillar flowed. After topping out on this WI4 pitch, we followed an exposed rib of snow and rock for another 1,500 feet to the summit ridge. On the summit, alpenglow illuminated the surrounding peaks, and ravens circled above our heads. We descended the back side, traversed around to our tracks, and slogged back to the car, arriving after 18 hours on the go. We named the route The Prism (IV 5.7 WI4).

Evan Phillips

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