American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Mt. Bradley, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Mt. Bradley, South Face. In July, Blair Williams and Michael Schaefer climbed a new route (5.10 A3) on the south face of Mt. Bradley. The route takes a line to the right of The Gift (Carpenter-House-Twight, 1998) and left of The Pearl (Orgler et al) and The Bourbon Bottle Route (Crouch-Donini, 1997). It appears Williams and Schaefer climbed the wall and went to summit, then rapped the route in 70-meter raps. The route involved 20 pitches of technical terrain, then ascended easy ground to the summit. In the topo in the Talkeetna Ranger Station, Williams and Schaefer refer to an “amazing 1,000-foot dihedral system” that they called the “Dancing Dihedrals.” They went on to write, “The route is a classic from start to finish. The Dancing Dihedrals are the most amazing dihedrals we have ever had the privilege of climbing. The rock on this route is superb (at least on the south face proper). The climbing was reminiscent of that found on classic El Cap routes.”

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