American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, Second Ascent, Previously Unreported. On June 25, 1998, Zack Smith and I made the second ascent of The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs on the Eye Tooth in the Ruth Gorge. Our first attempt ended about halfway up when a wet, then cold, storm forced us to bail. We had to chop our stuck ropes and make 80-foot raps. We returned three days later and climbed quickly to our high point, then continued and finished the route. We did stop a couple of hundred feet from the true summit due to snow slopes and ridges (we only had rock shoes), but all the technical climbing was finished. The route went all free, the crux going at 5.10c. The rock was some of the best that we had seen in the Ruth: lots of cracks and excellent pro. It went in 23 long pitches, not one under 55 meters and most at 60 meters. We rapped the route using Andi Orgler’s rap anchors. The route took about 18 hours camp-to-camp.

Aaron Martin

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