American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Kolob Canyons, Paria Point, Blitzkrieg

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Paria Point, Blitzkrieg. Established in May by Jason Stevens and Jared Nielson, Blitzkrieg (IV 5.9+ A2+/C2+) is an excellent Zion route with a moderate approach and excellent solitude. No other climbers and only a few hikers were encountered during the establishment of the route. The route, which is approached by hiking to Paria Point from the parking area at the mouth of the South Fork of Taylor Creek, offers excellent clean and aid climbing on splitter cracks and is fairly easy. The route begins by climbing into a dihedral using blocks on the right and working to a bolt. A bolt ladder traverse across the face also marks the first pitch. If climbers are willing to make the approach, the route could be a popular Zion moderate. Great attention was paid to the quality of the belay stations and bolt ladders. All belays have at least three Rawl bolts (1/2? and 3/8?) with epoxy reinforced hangers to prevent spinning. All belays have chains and rap rings. All bolt ladder bolts are 3/8-inch Rawl bolts. There are no rivets or “cheap” bolts on this route.

In addition to the regular array of cams, nuts, hooks, and pitons, critical gear includes two 60-meter ropes, one set of HB Bronze Offsets, one set of DMM Peanuts, one set of Ballnuts, one each of Pika Toucans number 1-3, one each of number 1-6 knifeblades, and two Black Diamond Peckers.

This route could be taken to the summit of the wall to gain the 800-foot scramble to the top of the formation. Due to time constraints, poor rock condition, and “Zion jungle bushwhack pitches,” the first ascent team ended the route at the top of the seventh pitch and did not explore a less direct route to the top. It is hoped that a future party will push the last pitches to the top.

Jason Stevens, unaffiliated

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