American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell, Haagenshlong Tower, First Ascent, Previously Unreported

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2001

Haagenshlong Tower, First Ascent, Previously Unreported. Haagenshlong Tower is on the north side of Buckhorn Wash on the comer wall joining Buckhorn Wash and Calf Canyon. The first ascent of the tower was made by the route of the same name, Haagenshlong (V 5.9 A2), in February, 1999, by Jason Stevens and Jared Nielson. Approach by scrambling up the slope, staying left of the tower. Head for a west-facing broken gully system and climb easy 5.3-5.5 blocks, gullies, and chimneys to a set of rappel anchors (used for the decent). Continue up the gully where it narrows to a clean slot/chimney that separates the tower from the main wall. Eventually this claustrophobic but fun and adventuresome scramble opens at a platform on the northeast corner between the tower and main wall. Start the route at an obvious flake that ends on a small ledge opposite the tower. Step across and stem the bolt-protected 5.9 bomb-bay chimney to a ledge belay on the outside corner of the tower. Continue up the face via Peckers, bolts, and bathook placements. Several pods, cracks, and flakes accept gear placements. Belay from anchors on top. Rappel the route and return the way you came, descending through the slot. Rap to the ground from anchors on the right. Quickdraws, Peckers, small KBs, two bathooks, small to medium nuts, and cams are needed.

Jason Stevens, unaffiliated

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