American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Mountaineering Club of Alaska

  • Club Activities
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2000

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. In February, Mark Miraglia and Dolly Lefever climbed the Northeast Ridge of Mt. Tasman in New Zealand. Dolly’s climb is thought to be the first ascent of this peak by someone with artificial hips. Meanwhile in Alaska, Cory Hinds and Richard Baranow made the first ascent of Nigelina, a 230-foot WI4+ ice climb in Eagle River (Chugach Mountains). Two weeks later, Carl Oswald, Richard Baranow and Wendy Sanem completed its previously unclimbed twin, Luther’s Delight (WI4+, 230').

In April, a strong team including David Hart, Paul Barry, Jim McDonough, Shawn O’Donnell and Kirk Towner made multiple ascents in the Canadian St. Elias Range. The following peaks were climbed: Mt. Slaggard (15,557'), Mt. Macaulay (15,387'), Southeast Macaulay (14,501') and Northwest Steele (13,845'). Richard Baranow, Wendy Sanem, Paul Templeton, Fred West and Tim Griffin summitted Mt. Marcus Baker (13,176') in the Chugach Mountains via the Northeast Ridge. Baranow, Sanem and West skied up the Matanuska Glacier, summitted, then skied out the Marcus Baker and Knik glaciers.

In May, David Hart, Dawn Groth, Cory Hinds, Elena Hinds, Wayne Todd, Kathy Still and Ben Still went ski touring on the upper Nabesna Glacier in the Alaskan Wrangell Mountains near Mt. Blackburn. Several 4,000-foot ski descents were made. Two strong teams summitted the Moose’s Tooth via the Ham and Eggs route (WI4 5.7). Harry Hunt and Peter Haeussler summitted in May, and David Hart and Brad Gessner summitted in June (for further information on these climbs, see Climbs and Expeditions: Alaska).

In July, David Hart, Bryan Carey and Ron Rickman visited Bolivia’s Cordillera Real and climbed Huayana Potosi, Pequeño Alpamayo, Ilusion, and Blanca. In October, David Hart and Kurt Bauer visited the Nepal Himalaya and climbed the South Ridge of Baruntse (23,400').

The club’s training activities included general mountaineering, winter camping, snow and ice climbing, glacier travel and crevasse rescue, winter camping and knots.

Community involvement activities included the hiker/climber sign project and public-use cabin construction. The joint MCA/AAC Alaska Section Climber/Hiker Sign Project was originally started in 1998. Its purpose was to provide a positive message to hikers/climbers with regard to their activities on public lands and to show the general public that there is a group of responsible outdoor recreationalists who care about their impact on other user groups. Funding was provided by grants from the AAC and REI. This project was completed in spring of 1999 when signs were installed at various rock/ice climbing areas and popular trailheads.

The Alaska Division of Parks and Outdoor Recreation and MCA, in collaboration with the AAC, sponsored the construction of a public use cabin in the Chugach State Park. Architectural work was provided on a pro bono basis; the Club supplied a work force of skilled volunteers and materials were purchased with funds obtained from grants and donations. The cabin is conveniently located in a prime ice climbing area.

Cory Hinds, Secretary

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