Chomo Lönzö, Attempt. The object of the expedition was the first ascent of Chomo Lönzö’s Middle Peak via the southwest face and northwest ridge. We were Eduard Birnbacher (leader, Germany), Walter Hölzler and Stefan Wiebel from Germany and Manfred Feil from Italy. Because of problems with the trekking agency, liaison officer and yak owners, we failed to reach the south side of Chomo Lönzö (a six- to seven-day approach). At Kharta (the start of the trekking), we had to deposit half of the climbing equipment and food because of the exorbitant costs for the yaks. We did not have enough animals for the approach. All these circumstances left us no opportunity to climb the peak.
After five days’ trekking we reached our new goal: the north face. Because of inadequate climbing equipment or food for the face and bad weather, the expedition failed to climb our new objective. After days on the mountain, I decided to abandon the expedition. My friends reached an altitude about 6100 meters on the north face.
Eduard Birnbacher, Deutscher Alpenverein