American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Tangmonja, Attempt, and Machag, First Ascent

Asia, Tibet

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: 1999
  • Publication Year: 2000

It was reported that Britons Derek Buckle, Gary Hill, Alyson Starling, John Town, John Whitely and Rik Wojtaszewski travelled to the Jomo Chu region of the western Nyangchen Tangla (Nyain-Qen-Tanglha) in July-August. From a base camp beneath the east face of Jomo Kangri (7048m), the team attempted the west ridge of the unclimbed Tangmonja (6328m). Advanced Base Camp (5525m) was established near the foot of the ridge. Poor weather prevented the team from climbing higher than 5850 meters, where the flat ridge quickly begins to steepen. Taking full advantage of a break in the weather, Buckle, Hill and Town made the first ascent of the prominent peak just to the southeast of Tangmonja via the 400-meter west face (AD-). The terrain involved excellent 45- to 50- degree granite and mixed ground; the ascent took nine hours from camp. They named the peak “Machag” (6025m) after the anvil-shaped summit block. (High Mountain Sports 210)

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